Qype Does Tottenham: Alternative Area Guide
We asked writer, Qyper and Tottenham local Abi to tell us her favourite local spots. She also enjoys playing keyboards, stroking cats, baking cakes and drinking obscene amounts of coffee.
Tottenham’s been no stranger to trouble in the past few decades, and recent events have put it back in the news for all the wrong areas. But those who live in the area know that there’s another Tottenham to be discovered: one that’s teeming with history, culture, green spaces, culinary delights and ever-changing innovation, and often at a price that most Londoners can only dream of. Tottenham can also be a hard area to define, because it’s not only bigger and far more diverse than you might think, but also takes in plenty of smaller neighbourhoods and enclaves, each with their own character and attractions.
Bruce Castle; one of the earliest brick buildings in the UK
If you want to learn about the area’s rich history, Bruce Castle Museum is a fascinating place to start. Believed to be the earliest brick building in the country, the Castle houses Haringey’s oldest artifacts and collections, some dating back as far as Roman times. But the main attraction of this unique 16th Century manor is its architectural beauty, and the landscaped gardens it occupies.
The gardens are open to the public and are particularly beautiful in the early autumn as the leaves turn lovely shades of red. A great time to experience them is on London Open House weekend (17-18 Sep) when visitors can get access to the top of the clock tower which (like all the best towers) has inspired numerous ghostly tales over the years.
Think you’ve already visited all of London’s markets? Chances are you haven’t even heard of Seven Sisters Market which sits behind the Tube station and is unknown even to many locals. Made up of over 50 stalls with a strong Latin American element, the indoor market was recently saved from demolition along with local landmark Wards Corner. Here you’ll find everything from food to beauty products in what feels almost like a gateway to another world.

Believe it or not, but Fatisa used to be a cab driver’s hut
A short walk away, in South Tottenham, you’ll find yourself immersed in another community as the Hasidic Jewish contingent in Stamford Hill has a strong presence here, with a smattering of kosher cafes and other businesses. These include Sharon’s Bakery at Manor House, which serves an array of cakes and pastries alongside savoury snacks that include some interesting veggie options in the interests of avoiding pork.
For fans of authentic Italian food, San Marco on nearby Bruce Grove is a well-kept local secret with a steady stream of devoted diners, many of whom insist that it serves the best Italian food in North London. A family-run restaurant where every dish is made from scratch, San Marco is much loved for its warm and welcoming atmosphere. Other highly-rated restaurants include ultra-affordable veggie haunt Jai Shri Krishna and Fatisa, a Mediterranean restaurant in the somewhat quirky setting of an old cab driver’s hut. Further afield, check out i Borboni on Green Lanes for fresh and tasty Neopolitan food at jaw-droppingly low prices.

Local legends Marmalade also make a fine carrot cake…
At first glance, great coffee is hard to track down in Tottenham but, with a handful of excellent establishments to choose from, you won’t have to travel far for a cappuccino that rivals anything Islington has to offer! Marmalade on Lordship Lane particularly stands out, with wholesome food, delicious carrot cake and almost legendary coffee! Further south in Harringay’s Wightman Road, the newly-opened Cafe Moka is getting great local buzz and is well worth a visit.
For those who like a bit of fresh air with their coffee, Markfield Park in Tottenham Hale is home to the Pistachio’s Cafe; a friendly meeting spot that’s become especially popular with local mums and serves a decent selection of organic food for all ages. The park has recently undergone renovation and is a pleasant gateway to Tottenham Marshes, an area of natural wetland full of wildlife.

The Salisbury’s beautiful Edwardian exterior
Tottenham pubs worth a visit include The Ferry Boat Inn: often seen as a little slice of rural life in Tottenham, with a sizeable beer garden and good selection of food. Its proximity to the Lea Valley riverside makes this pub particularly popular with walkers, but it’s great for anyone seeking to escape from the city.
Just south of Turnpike Lane Station on Harringay’s Green Lanes is The Salisbury, a hugely popular haunt among Tottenham residents who make the trip to enjoy its spacious grandeur, live music and great selection of beers. From here, you’ll have easy access to all of what Green Lanes has to offer, including a wealth of Turkish eateries, independent supermarkets and cafes.
For your shopping needs, Tottenham has all you’re ever likely to need and more, with convenience stores whose prices put most chain supermarkets to shame. Many are Turkish-run, and sell freshly-baked flatbread or pide by the meter for less than a pound a throw. More specialist stores include the Big Green Bookshop in Wood Green; a well-stocked indie bookshop staffed by a friendly team who’ll go all-out to source any book you might be after.
Have we missed anywhere? Leave a comment or add it to our Tottenham guide
sarah_drinkwater on August 30th 2011 in Area guides


